Tragaki — The Hillside Village Above the Coast
Tragaki sits on the gentle slopes above Tsilivi, separated from the coastal resort by just a few minutes of winding road. Where Tsilivi is organised tourism, Tragaki is something else entirely: a functioning Greek village where olive groves still outnumber sunbeds and the evening air smells of jasmine rather than sunscreen.
The village divides naturally into two zones. The lower part, closest to the coast road, has a few local tavernas, a small church, and a scattering of family homes. The upper slopes — particularly the Paliochora-Roumbinoula area — are home to an exclusive collection of private villas with commanding views across the Ionian Sea.
The Setting
From Tragaki’s hillside position, you look northeast over the gently curving bay that holds both Tsilivi and Planos beach. On clear days — which is most days from June through September — you can see the outline of Kefalonia to the north and the Peloponnese coast to the southeast. It’s a view that justifies a lot.
The village itself is small: a few hundred permanent residents, a church that rings every hour through the night (earplugs recommended if you’re a light sleeper), a mini-market open intermittent hours, and two or three tavernas that cater primarily to locals and the residents of the surrounding villas.
Getting Around
Tragaki is most practical with a car or scooter. Tsilivi beach is about 10 minutes on foot down the hill — manageable in the morning, less appealing in afternoon heat. The main bus route between Zakynthos Town and Tsilivi passes the village junction, running roughly every 30 minutes in summer.
Zakynthos Town is 8 kilometres south — 12 minutes by car. The airport is about 25 minutes.
Where to Eat
The tavernas in Tragaki don’t advertise. They don’t need to: their regulars come back every summer and bring their friends. Look for the one with the handwritten chalkboard menu and the owner who comes out to personally recommend what’s fresh. The grilled fish here typically comes straight from boats in Tsilivi harbour, a fact the menus on the beach road find harder to claim honestly.
Accommodation
The Paliochora-Roumbinoula area above the village is home to a cluster of high-quality private villas — some of the best-positioned rental properties on the island. Villa Keshi, run by local owners, is one of the standouts: three bedrooms, private pool, and a terrace that frames the sea view perfectly.
