Almyra — Modern Greek on the Tsilivi Waterfront
The name means “salty” — a reference to the sea air and the flavour profile of the cooking, which leans into salinity, acidity, and char rather than the butter-and-cream approach. Almyra opened a few years ago and positioned itself as the thinking person’s alternative to the resort taverna strip: more considered cooking, a genuine wine list, a shorter and more seasonal menu.
The Setting
The terrace runs along the edge of the coastline at the southern end of Tsilivi, with the sea below and a long view south towards Zakynthos Town on clear evenings. The tables are set with proper glassware. The kitchen is open-plan and visible from the dining area. It’s a step up from a standard taverna in every measurable way, at prices that reflect this but don’t overstate it.
The Food
Marinated anchovies are the first thing to order. Fresh anchovies, cured in lemon juice and olive oil (the same technique as Spanish boquerones but with Greek fish), dressed with capers and a tiny amount of dried chilli. They’re delicate, bright, and completely unlike preserved anchovies. With bread, they’re a full first course.
Lamb with aubergine and feta — a slow-braise of lamb shoulder with aubergine that absorbs the cooking juices, finished with crumbled feta and fresh herbs. The richness of the lamb is cut by the aubergine and sharpened by the feta. This is the kind of Greek dish that could go in a recipe book.
Charcoal grilled octopus — octopus prepared properly (frozen first to tenderise, then braised, then finished on the grill), dressed with olive oil, lemon, and a scatter of dried oregano. The grill marks are structural, not decorative.
Kritharoto with seafood — orzo cooked like risotto (gradual stock addition, constant stirring) with prawns, mussels, and squid. The starch from the orzo makes the sauce naturally creamy without any cream.
The Wine
The wine list is one of the better ones in the Tsilivi area: Assyrtiko from Santorini, Malagousia from Macedonia, Robola from Cephalonia. The staff know the list and make recommendations without being obsequious about it.
