La Bella Vista — Sunsets and Pasta Above Laganas

The name is self-explanatory and, for once, accurate. From the terrace of La Bella Vista, elevated on the hills above Laganas, the view takes in the full sweep of the bay — the beach, the flatlands, the outline of the Keri headland, and, on clear evenings, the island of Strofades on the horizon. It’s the kind of view that makes you order another drink and push dinner back half an hour.

The Setting

A purpose-built terrace restaurant designed around the panorama rather than incidentally possessing it. The best seats are on the outer edge of the terrace, facing west. The interior dining room is pleasant but loses the point. Come for the view, sit outside.

The atmosphere is more relaxed than the beach resorts below — slightly older clientele, couples, people who’ve actively sought out an alternative to the Laganas strip. Good music at a volume that allows conversation.

The Food

The menu tilts Italian rather than purely Greek, which suits the setting. The spaghetti alle vongole is the best thing in the kitchen: fresh clams sourced locally, white wine, garlic, good olive oil, parsley — the pasta cooked properly and not overdressed. The clams are the point, and they’re treated with respect.

Grilled branzino (sea bass) is the safe choice for fish — fresh, chargrilled simply, with lemon and herbs. The Greek dishes are less consistent than the pasta section, so if you’re undecided, go Italian.

Beef carpaccio as a starter — thin-sliced, with rocket, capers, and a sharp dressing. Straightforward and fine.

The tiramisu is made in-house and arrives in a proper generous portion rather than a dainty decorative smear.

The Sunset Rule

If the weather is clear, arrive at 19:00. Order drinks first. Watch the light change over the bay. Then order dinner. Rushing to eat before the sunset makes no sense here — the kitchen will be there when you’re ready.